Elizabeth Keckly born(February 1818-May 1907)was an ex slave who became a civil activist, author, and amazing seamstress. She also was known to have had a personal friendship with Mary Todd Lincoln, first lady, and wife of Abraham Lincoln. Keckly bought her freedom in 1860 and moved to Washington D.C. with her son. She then started her very own independent business in the nation's capital that were based around wives of the government elite.

Mary Anna Curtis Lee, wife of Robert E. Lee and Varina Davis, wife of Jefferson Davis. Keckly wrote and published an autobiography, Behind the Scenes:or, Thirty Years a Slave and Four Years in the White House in 1868 after the American Civil War. It was considered a slave narrative and also portrayed the first family, which brought some controversy between her and first lady Lincoln dealing with privacy being broken between them.

Illustration by:Jody Hewgill/Mary Todd Lincoln and Madam Keckly at arena stage at the Mead Center for American Theater./Smithsonian.com

Keckly's Childhood

Madam Keckly's childhood was truly brutal and severe. Keckly was born in Dinwiddie, VA. It was just south of Petersburg. Agnes, her mother, also known as "Aggy" was a house slave, owned by Armistead and Mary Burrell. Reading and writing was illegal and prohibited during this period of torture, but Keckly's mother was able to do so. Keckly began duties as early as age 4. The Burrells had 4 children all under the age of 10. Keckly became a nursemaid, which is another term for nanny. For a major responsibility at such a young age, Keckly received brutal punishment when she accidentally tipped the cradle over and the infant rolled out, and yet, i ask myself, what adult in their right mind would leave the care of an infant in the arms of a child. Keckly's mother was given permission to marry George Pleasant, a literate slave who worked at a neighbors home during her childhood. Her stepfather was taken away when his owner moved away and they never reunited, although, they kept in touch for many years.

Keckly stated that the only memories left of her stepfather were the faded letters he wrote full of love, and hoping one day their future would bring brighter days. Keckly's mother eventually told her who her biological father was on her deathbed, which was the owner himself, Armistead Burrell. It was quite clear by Keckly's appearance that he was white.

In 1832, at age 14 Keckly was "borrowed" by the eldest Burrell son, Robert in Chesterfield Co. It was not far from Petersburg. Unfortunately for Keckly, his wife Margaret Anna Robertson, made life a new living nightmare for Keckly for the next four years. Keckly noted that Margaret was "desirous to wreak vengeance" upon her. Keckly often wrote letters to her mother during this time. When Keckly was 18, Margaret enlisted a neighbor, William J. Bingham to keep her "stubborn pride" in check. Bingham ordered her to his quarters, made her undress so that he may beat her, but Keckly refused. She felt no one had the right to whip her except her own master. Bingham proceeded anyway, sending Keckly back to her owner with bleeding welts and severe pain and it proceeded until he one day became exhausted, claiming it would be a sin to whip her even further. According to Keckly, Bingham kept his word. It is also stated that Alexander M. Kirkland raped Keckly for four years, and what she also considered, suffering and deep modification. In 1830 she had a son by Kirkland and named him after her stepfather George. She then returned back to VA. to serve the Garlands.

Keckly's Adult Life

After many moves, St. Louis was next for the Garlands, taking Keckly and Keckly's mother, Agnes to tend to their children and do all the family sewing. 12 years of living and working in St. Louis, Keckly mingled with its large free black population. She had good connection with the women in the white community. Keckly then met her future husband James, but refused to marry him until her and her son were free, but Hugh A. Garland refused. She worked 2 years to convince him and finally in 1852, he agreed for a fee of $1200.

Keckly's bond of Freedom/Courtesy of the Missouri History Museum/burwellschool.org

Keckly's Passion

Keckly decided to stay in St. Louis until she had enough money to repay the loan back to her patrons. New York was the first thing in mind for Keckly, she wanted to "appeal the benevolence of the people." Patroness Elizabeth Le Bourgeois said that it would be a shame for Keckly to have to go up north to "beg" for what they were already able to help her with. Keckly worked very hard in her business as well as her personal life. Keckly enrolled her son in the Wilberforce University.

It was also said that Keckly started to make plans on leaving St. Louis and her husband James. Keckly moved to Baltimore, MD, where she taught classes for young colored women, teaching her way of catting and fitting dresses. After several weeks, she barely had enough funds to get to Washington D.C. and for Keckly, it meant better opportunities for work. Maryland at the time began to pass repressive laws against free blacks, although in 1860, Keckly began to work as seamstress in Washington in the mid 1860s and once again Keckly lacked the funds to pay for the required license needed as a free black to remain in the city for more than thirty days. Keckly once again found herself at the mercy of her patrons.

Ms. Ringold, who had connection with the mayor James G. Berretto petitioned a license for Keckly to legally continue her work and it was granted free of charge. Madam Keckly began to establish clients and gain enough work to support herself. Commissions for her dresses were booming and steadily coming in, but it wasn't until Keckly created a dress for Mrs. Robert E. Lee, that sparked her business to a blossom. Keckly's word of mouth recommendations found her working with the women of high societies. Margaret McClean of Maryland, introduced by Varina Davis, insisted that Keckly be the sole designer of her dress and made it clear that she needed it a.s.a.p. Keckly declined, as she already had a number of dresses scheduled that had to be fulfilled.

First Lady Lincoln's purple velvet skirt and daytime bodice for the Washington social season made by Keckly/National Museum of American History/Smithsonian.com

Mrs. McLean offered to introduce Keckly to the White House. The newly elected president, Abraham Lincoln and his wife. Keckly finished the dress for Mclean, who then set up the meeting with Mrs. Lincoln.

Rear view of first lady Lincoln's velvet skirt and bodice/ National Museum of American History/Smithsonian.com

Keckly and the White House

Madam Keckly was introduced to Mary Todd Lincoln on March 4, 1861, which was also the day of president Lincoln's inauguration. Preparing for the days event, Mrs. Lincoln asked Keckly to return the following day for an interview. When Keckly arrived the next day she saw that she wasn't the only one being interviewed, but Mrs. Lincoln chose her as a personal modiste. Keckly was not only still making dresses but she became the first lady's fashion designer. She helped Mrs. Lincoln get ready for official receptions and all the social events.

Over the course of 6 years, Keckly became an intimate witness to their private life. The first lady's love for fashion kept Keckly busy maintaining and creating new pieces for her extensive wardrobe.

Mary Todd Lincoln in one of Keckly's creations/Burwell School Historic Site

During the Lincoln Administration, Madam Keckly was the only designer and creator of Mary Todd Lincoln's wardrobe. Brady's Washington shows images of the first lady wearing two of Keckly's gowns and dresses to many special occassions and events and had most of her portraits taken in Keckly's work. Outside of creating and dressmaking for the first lady, Keckly also started the Contraband Relief Association, an association known to have gotten lost to history. The (CRA) provided food, shelter, clothing, and emotional support to recently freed slaves and/or sick and wounded soldiers. The organization was based in Washington D.C. The funds distributed and the services provided helped families in larger regions.

Even though the CRA became lost in history it set a standard and showed the need for relief organizations to provide aid to the poor and broken black community. The CRA was known for improving alot of things throughout the community, but it has also been somewhat hidden and overlooked in later history.

Keckly became a source of strength for the Lincolns. She was also given duties to to look after the children during times of illness. George Kirkland, Keckly's only son, was enlisted as a "white" in the union army in 1861, but was killed while in active duty the same year after a war began. Keckly comforted the first lady after president Lincoln assassination in 1865, but whose to say whether or not Keckly got the same comfort.

Keckly's Later Life and Legacy

Keckly led a quiet and secluded life in her later years. She was also known to have suffered from crying spells and severe migraines. It was known that her estranged friend, Mary Todd Lincoln was suffering from this as well. They reconciled their differences some time later after one of her book's publication. Keckly died in 1907 as a resident of the National Home located in Washington D.C. The dress that Keckly designed for Mary Todd Lincoln to wear for Lincoln's inauguration and reception can be found at the Smithsonian's American History museum. Keckly also created a quilt made from scrap materials from dresses she created for the first lady. It is now held by the Kent State University museum and is also shown in the book, The Threads of Time and The Fabric of History, by Rosemary E. Reed Miller. It includes Keckly as well as other numerous Black American Designers. The Burwell School Historic site discusses Keckly's life and time as well, and not to mention Steven Spielberg's 2012 film LINCOLN, Keckly is being played by Gloria Reuben.